Cooking Up a Change at the Avenue Ale House

Twelve years ago, the debuted to much fanfare, and the space at 825 S. Oak Park Ave. was a welcome addition for South Oak Parkers and thirsty locals looking to grab a good bite to eat.

But the dining landscape has changed. Fancy taverns and gastropubs like , and Duckfat in Forest Park are the new norm, and the entire Southtown Business District has sprouted and surged.

The Ale House, for all of its upscale bar grub and lengthy beer lists, apparently hasn't kept pace. Some local reviewers say it's best attraction has nothing to do with the food. They come for the rooftop beer garden.

Now, the owners are looking to change course.

"We haven't changed the menu in 12 years," said manager Arlene Michaud. "Obviously Oak Park's taste buds have changed...we want to provide food that other restaurant's don't have, and if they do have the same type of food, we've got to make sure it's more unique, and the quality has got to be better."

It's going to be a big job, so they brought in a big man — Chef David Johnson II, a former bodybuilder, graduate of the French Pastry School and restaurant industry veteran.

We caught up with Johnson, 37, as he took a break from absorbing an incoming delivery of supplies for his renovated menu, which he says will "walk up to the front door of fine dining and knock on it." Back in the kitchen, he's taped his extensive menu to the walk-in coolers, which both serves as a hint of entrees to come (roasted Amish chicken breast with sautéed broccolini, homemade lamb sausage with gnocchi), and a sort of not-so-subtle reminder to the line cooks that there's a new chef in town.

Patch: Tell us about your cooking background.

I've been in the kitchen all my life. I started a dishwasher when I was 14. I went to the French Pasty School in Chicago, but I'm mainly self-taught as far as the culinary side. I've been cooking all my life. I've worked at a variety of places, from fine dining to country clubs to resorts. I've opened three restaurants in the past few years, Porter's Oyster Bar in Crystal Lake, Barley House in Lake in the Hills, and I was a Sous Chef at Charlie's in Elmhurst.

What's your style? What are your culinary influences?

My style of cooking is just respect for the food, respect for the preparation. Clean flavors and seasonal, all while trying to pay respect to the classics and to simply satisfy guests on a daily basis. We'll use everything the Midwest has to offer. The possibilities are pretty endless.

What local offerings have made their way into your kitchen?

I have a few Illinois farms that I'll be showcasing, and some from Iowa (Becker Lane Organic Farm) and Wisconsin's Rushing Waters Fishery. They have an organic trout that will go on the menu. And I intend to use Slagel Family Farms.

We'll be using local olive oils and vinegars from right here in Oak Park. And when the Oak Park Farmers Market opens up, I want to be a regular there as I try to revive the Avenue Ale House.

Speaking of, do you feel a lot of pressure?

To reinvent? A little bit. But I feel very confident in my ability to give people what they want. I think that over 20 years of experience in the restaurant business, with its ups and downs, you learn a lot...I feel like I'm not at my prime yet but I'm getting to a very comfortable place personally. There is a little bit of pressure, but it's fun.

Walk us through the process of creating a new menu.

They've had the same menu here for quite some time. It's a good blend of sandwiches and burgers and pizza and things like that. But I think that for today's dining, it needed to be fine-tuned. So for the past 30 days, we've simply changed.

Some of it is financial...how much were we wasting? I took over the ordering, changed the prep and the amounts [of ordering] that we do. And throughout January, each week I've been running special to try to gauge what people like. If they sell well, they'll go on the menu.

How's the feedback?

It's been good. I've done a chorizo burger with poblanos on an herb focaccia. I've been doing a lamb burger that went well. All of these little things to take basic burgers into 2012. There's also scallops on a parmesan risotto — sounds upscale, but it's a very simple dish, and naturally at a fair price.

This place was a pioneer of sorts in Oak Park. A lot's changed since then. So what's going to set your menu apart?

The flavors and the variety. I think we have a great variety for the person who wants to eat vegetarian and gluten-free, and for the person who wants to eat a great rib eye steak. Artisan burgers. Comfort food, I think, with just a little it more care.

I know of Duckfat, Kinderhook and Lake Street Kitchen + Bar. All great places. Autre Monde in Berwyn, they're a rock star team right there. I just want to be the best restaurant we can be.

Chef David Johnson II officially takes the reins on March 1. Until then, he'll continue to roll out specials, including a $99 Valentine's Day special for two, which includes gourmet breads with honey butter, a choice of lobster bisque or French onion soup, a Cesare "Moderne" salad, a Spring "Love" salad, and a Surf-N-Turf with filet mignon, lobster tail, garlic potatoes au Gratin and broiled parmesan tomatoes. Desserts will include choice of dark chocolate mousse with raspberry eclair or Creme caramel with Champagne strawberries.